Umbria Italy Travel Guide
Umbrian cuisine often bears the name "cucina povera," meaning "poor man's cooking." This term points to a culinary approach emphasizing simple, high-quality, and locally sourced ingredients. It is not about scarcity of flavor but resourceful and delicious preparation of what the land yields.
Historically, Umbria's economy relied heavily on agriculture, shaping its dishes around grains, legumes, cured meats, wild game, and, importantly, truffles. Olive oil is a prime position, used generously in almost every dish. This culinary approach mirrors centuries of tradition, where sustainability and respect for ingredients were a way of life.
Lunch ("pranzo") typically happens between 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM. Dinner ("cena") usually starts around 7:30 PM and can extend until 10:00 PM or later, especially in summer. Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner service.
An Italian meal often follows a structure: Antipasto (starter), Primo (first course), Secondo (main course), Contorno (side), Dolce (dessert), Caffè (espresso). Ordering all courses is not required.
Bread typically accompanies meals. Using it to sop up sauces ("fare la scarpetta") is common. Ask for "acqua naturale" (still) or "acqua frizzante" (sparkling). Bottled water is standard.
This hand-rolled pasta, similar to fettuccine but without egg, is a regional staple. It is served with a rich sauce from finely grated black truffles, olive oil, and sometimes garlic. Find it in almost any restaurant, especially in truffle towns.
A true Umbrian classic.
A savory, fatty, and moist boneless pork roast. Traditionally seasoned with garlic, rosemary, and wild fennel, then slow-roasted for crispy skin. Often served in sandwiches from street vendors or as a main course. Look for it at local markets.
Don't miss this flavorful street food.
A variety of cured meats from Norcia. These include various types of prosciutto, salame, and capocollo. Visit specialty shops called "norcinerie" to sample and purchase these high-quality products.
A regional deli delight.
Famous chocolate hazelnut candies, from Perugia. They often feature small love notes inside.
Artisanal Italian ice cream, a beloved treat found in "gelaterias" throughout every town. Always a must-try for best quality and natural flavors.
Found in larger cities like Perugia and Spoleto. These restaurants often present modern interpretations of Umbrian cuisine, creative dishes, and sometimes international fare, along with extensive wine lists.
Trattorias, osterias, and ristorantes form the backbone of Umbria’s dining scene and spread throughout the region. Trattorias and osterias are informal, often family-run, serving hearty traditional dishes. Ristorantes are generally more formal, with broader menus.
Pizzerias al taglio for quick slices, paninoteche for sandwiches, norcinerie for cured meats, and weekly markets for fresh produce. International cuisine is limited outside Perugia.
Mercato Coperto in Perugia is a covered market presenting fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and sometimes prepared foods, offering a look into local commerce.
Local weekly markets take place in almost every town on specific days.
International cuisine options are limited outside Perugia, where an university student population supports some Asian, Middle Eastern, or fast-food choices.
For the best experience, focus on local Umbrian cuisine.
Italy demonstrates high awareness of celiac disease. Many pizzerias and some restaurants offer gluten-free pasta or pizza. Look for "AIC" sticker.
Learning a few Italian phrases for your allergy ("Sono allergico/an a...") is good. Be specific. A translation card with common allergens aids communication.
Use Google Translate for specific dietary phrases. Apps like "HappyCow" can assist in finding vegetarian/vegan restaurants, though options might see limits in smaller towns.
Ask for "il menu del giorno" or "piatti del giorno" at trattorias for fresh, seasonal ingredients and good value.
Use Google Translate for specific dietary phrases to communicate clearly.
A translation card with common allergens is very useful.
Apps like "HappyCow" can assist in finding vegetarian/vegan restaurants globally.
Options might be limited in smaller Umbrian towns.
Some restaurants in towns like Orvieto present underground dining experiences in ancient caves or cellars, adding to the ambiance.
Numerous cooking classes are available, often at agriturismi or specialized culinary schools. Classes typically focus on Umbrian pasta making, truffle dishes, or regional specialties.
Many agriturismi present tours of their farms, olive groves, or vineyards, allowing a view of food origins. Visit a "norcineria" in Norcia to learn about cured meats or tour an olive oil mill for tastings during olive harvest (Oct-Nov).
Italian language schools are available in Perugia, home to the Università per Stranieri di Perugia. These schools present short or long-term courses, providing an immersive way to learn the language.
Staying at agriturismi often directly sustains local farming communities and brings economic benefits to rural areas.
A direct way to support local agriculture.
Direct support for local artists.
Visit the Perugina Casa del Cioccolato for a tour and tasting of the famous chocolate hazelnut candies.
Experience a "frantoio" tour, especially during harvest season, to sample Umbria's high-quality extra virgin olive oil.
Explore vineyards in Montefalco and taste the region's signature bold red wine, Sagrantino di Montefalco.
Be aware that many restaurants close between lunch and dinner service, typically from 2:30 PM to 7:30 PM.