Todi Umbria And Le Marche, Italy Travel Guide
Umbria's culinary traditions derive from its agricultural landscape. The region's cuisine, often called "cucina povera" (poor cooking), reflects a legacy of making delicious meals from simple, readily available ingredients.
The focus centers on the high quality of the raw materials rather than elaborate preparations. It carries a hearty, rustic cuisine, full of robust flavors.
Lunch (Pranzo): Typically served between 1:00 PM and 2:30 PM. Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner service. Dinner (Cena): Generally starts about 7:30 PM and continues till 10 o'clock:00 PM or later. Do not expect to find dinner served much earlier, especially in smaller towns.
A "coperto" (cover charge) or "servizio" (service charge) may appear on your bill. The coperto represents a per-person charge for bread, linen, and service. The servizio is a percentage of the bill. If either is included, additional tipping is not necessary.
Bread usually arrives with meals, for "scarpetta" (sopping up sauce), not typically for eating with olive oil or butter unless offered as part of an antipasto. Espresso is the standard coffee; Italians often drink it standing at the bar. Cappuccino generally serves as a breakfast drink, not ordered after midday.
This is a quintessential Umbrian dish. Strangozzi are hand-rolled pasta, similar to thick spaghetti or tagliatelle, often irregular in shape. They typically come with a simple, yet incredibly flavorful, sauce of local black truffles, garlic, and Umbrian extra virgin olive oil.
Where to Find: Nearly every traditional trattoria and restaurant in Todi will feature this recipe, especially during truffle season (autumn/winter for black truffles, in the spring for summer truffles).
Wild boar (cinghiale) remains a popular game meat in Umbria. It often appears as a rich, slow-cooked ragù with pasta, especially wide pappardelle noodles (pappardelle al cinghiale). It further serves as a key course, stewed with spices and wine. Porchetta has a flavorful, fatty, and moist boneless pork roast, typically stuffed with garlic, rosemary, and wild fennel. It undergoes slow-roasting until the skin turns crispy.
Where to Find: Traditional restaurants and agriturismi for cinghiale. Porchetta is often sold at local markets, from specialized porchetta vans, or in simple bakeries and delis. It functions as a popular "street food" or sandwich filling.
Torta al Testo is a traditional Umbrian flatbread, cooked on a testo (a terracotta griddle). It resembles a thick, unleavened focaccia. Bruschetta all'Olio Nuovo is simple, yet profound: toasted bread topped generously with freshly pressed extra virgin olive oil (olio nuovo).
Where to Find: Torta al Testo often serves with cured meats, cheeses, or vegetables; some bakeries prepare it. Bruschetta is available in many restaurants and agriturismi in the autumn, especially good in late autumn after the olive harvest.
A simple, ring-shaped cake, often seasoned with lemon or orange zest. It is common for breakfast or a snack and pairs well with coffee.
Torciglione is a traditional almond-based pastry shaped like a coiled snake, often prepared during Christmas. Panpepato is a dark, spiced fruitcake, another Christmas specialty from Umbria.
Todi has a limited number of truly "fine dining" restaurants. Those present focus on refined interpretations of Umbrian cuisine, often with elegant settings and extensive wine lists. Expect a higher price point.
This reoffers the most common type of eatery in Todi. These traditional italian restaurants and osterias provide a good balance of quality, authentic Umbrian dishes, and reasonable prices. They include a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere.
Pizzerias offer casual and affordable meals. Many Italian bars serve more than just drinks. They often offer panini (sandwiches), salads, and straightforward pasta dishes for lunch. Look for vendors selling porchetta or other local specialties at the weekly market. Todi's weekly market (usually on Saturdays) is a great place to buy fresh produce, local cheeses, cured meats, and other specialties for eating outside or self-catering.
Vegetarian: Relatively easy to find. Many pasta dishes with tomato sauce (pasta al pomodoro), grilled vegetables (verdure grigliate), salads, and cheese-based dishes exist. Specify "senza carne" (vegetarian) or "senza pesce" (without fish). Vegan: Needs more specific requests. While Italian cuisine uses many vegetables, animal products (cheese, eggs, cured meats) are common.
Clearly state "senza formaggio" (without cheese), "senza uova" (without eggs), and "senza latticini" (without dairy).
Halal and Kosher Availability: Extremely limited, if available at all, in Todi. Consider self-catering or packing some dietary-specific items if these are needed. Gluten-Free: Awareness of gluten-free options (senza glutine) expands within Italy. Larger restaurants may feature gluten-free pasta or bread. However, in a small town like Todi, choices might be limited.
Carrying a small card or using a Translation app to clearly explain dietary needs in Italian stands advisable. Cross-contamination in smaller kitchens remains a concern for severe allergies. Communicate clearly and assess the restaurant's understanding.
Many agriturismi or local operators offer classes on regional cuisine. Learn to make fresh pasta, traditional sauces, or truffle dishes. Umbrian Cookbook
Olive oil mills and wineries offer tours and tastings. Learn about manufacturing and sample products directly.
Various sagre (regional culinary festivals) occur throughout Umbria, celebrating products.
Often a true farm-to-table experience made with local ingredients.
Enjoy a leisurely lunch and a later dinner.
This aligns with the Italian pace of being and often brings a more relaxed dining experience.
Todi's dining scene focuses almost exclusively on traditional Italian and Umbrian fare. If you seek diverse global flavors, you might find more options in Perugia.
This town offers authentic regional tastes.
While Todi has a lot of great dishes, regional variations exist. Near Lake Trasimeno, expect fish that live in freshwater dishes.
Norcia, further east, notably boasts renown for its cured meats and cheeses, which differ from Todi's specific focus.
Enjoy a leisurely lunch and a later dinner. This aligns with the Italian pace of life.
Clearly state dietary needs in Italian. Use a translation app for clarity.
Visit local markets for fresh produce, cheeses, and cured meats for picnics or self-catering.
Hand-rolled pasta with black truffles, garlic, and Umbrian olive oil.
A must-try regional specialty.
Wild boar ragù with pasta or slow-cooked stew. Savory pork roast often served in sandwiches.
Traditional Umbrian meats.
Black truffles taste ideal in autumn/winter; summer truffles during warmer months. Consider truffle hunting experiences.
Fresh porcini mushrooms abound in autumn, usually accompanied by pasta or grilled.
The "Olio Nuovo" (new oil) celebration occurs in late autumn (November/December) after the olive harvest.
Embrace the local dining schedule. Enjoy a leisurely lunch and a later dinner. This aligns with the Italian language pace of life and often brings a more relaxed dining experience.
