Umbria And Le Marche, Italy
The Marche region, bordered by the Apennine Mountains to the west and the Adriatic Sea to the east, naturally developed a cuisine that draws from both. This is a rich blend of hearty meat dishes from the interior and delicate seafood from the coast.
Historically, Marche was largely self-sufficient, leading to strong traditions in cured meats, artisanal cheeses, and homemade pasta. The food here is often hearty and comforting, reflecting a history of agricultural life and the abundance of its natural resources.
Ancona's position as a major port means an abundance of fresh fish and shellfish. Expect dishes with mussels (moscioli), clams, cod (baccalà), anchovies, and various local fish caught daily.
Lamb and rabbit are popular, notably in inland areas. Pecorino, a flavorful sheep's milk cheese, is widely produced. Casciotta d'Urbino, a DOP cheese, is another local specialty.
Black truffles are common in the inland areas of Marche. Homemade egg pasta, like tagliatelle and vincisgrassi, forms a cornerstone. Ascolana olives, large green olives often stuffed, breaded, and deep-fried, are a regional icon.
Ancona's signature fish stew, a flavorful and aromatic dish. Traditionally, it uses 13 different types of fish, cooked in a rich broth with tomatoes and a touch of vinegar. Each restaurant might have its own variation, but the focus remains on the freshness of the seafood.
Find it in seafood restaurants, especially those near the port.
Wild mussels, native to the Conero Riviera, for their unique, intense flavor. They are a protected local specialty, harvested sustainably. Often served simply steamed with lemon, or in pasta dishes.
The best place to enjoy them is in restaurants directly in Portonovo bay during their season (typically May to September).
A rich, baked pasta dish similar to lasagna, but often more elaborate. Its meat sauce is complex, often with various meats (sometimes offal like chicken livers or sweetbreads), and occasionally flavored with truffles. This is a true specialty of the Marche region, a hearty and comforting dish.
A staple of Marchese cooking.
Ciambellone is a simple, ring-shaped cake. Cicerchiata are fried dough balls drizzled with honey, especially popular during the Carnival season.
Panna Cotta is a creamy, gelatin-set custard. Tiramisu is the famous coffee-flavored dessert, widely available. Gelato is ubiquitous throughout Italy, always a refreshing treat. Seek artisanal gelaterias for the best quality.
A few upscale restaurants in Ancona and along the Conero Riviera offer refined Marchese cuisine, often with stunning sea views.
Numerous trattorias and osterias make up Ancona's dining scene. These establishments serve traditional Marchese dishes and fresh seafood at reasonable prices.
For quick, affordable bites:
Ancona's historic covered market. A fantastic place to buy fresh produce, local cheeses, cured meats, and other regional specialties. Some stalls also sell prepared foods.
An authentic glimpse into daily local life.
While traditional Italian and Marchese cuisine is common, some international options are in the city center catering to diverse tastes, including Chinese, Japanese, and kebab shops.
For variety outside of local flavors.
A crisp, dry white wine with almond notes.
A full-bodied red wine mainly from Montepulciano grapes.
Another local white wine, distinct from the cheese, with freshness and complexity.
Anise-flavored liqueur and a bitter herbal liqueur, regional specialties.
Use a Travel phrasebook to communicate your dietary restrictions clearly.
Phrases like "Sono vegetariano" (I am vegetarian), "Sono vegano" (I am vegan), "Senza glutine" (gluten-free), or "Sono allergico a..." (I am allergic to...) are helpful.
Always tell restaurant staff about any allergies or dietary requirements clearly when ordering.
Use a Translation app if needed.
Specific pastries and dishes are for religious holidays, like "pizza di Pasqua" (a savory or sweet bread) around Easter, and various fried foods during Carnival.
To truly experience local flavors, consider browsing an Italian cookbook before your trip.
Some local operators or agriturismi in the Marche region may have cooking classes focusing on traditional Marchese cuisine.
Opportunities exist to visit vineyards in the Verdicchio wine region near Jesi, olive oil mills, or cheese producers in the Marche countryside.
The Marche region hosts many food festivals (sagre) throughout the year, celebrating local products like truffles, olives, wine, or seafood.
Specific pastries and dishes are for religious holidays, like "pizza di Pasqua" (a savory or sweet bread) around Easter, and various fried foods during Carnival.
These reflect traditional celebrations.
Local "sagre" throughout the year celebrate seasonal products like truffles, olives, wine, or specific seafood.
Consult local tourism calendars for dates and locations.
To truly experience local flavors, consider browsing an Italian cookbook before your trip.
Keep track of your culinary discoveries with a Food journal to remember your favorite dishes and restaurants.
For fresh and local ingredients, a Reusable shopping bag is practical for market visits.
Marche's cuisine is a harmonious blend of its mountainous interior and Adriatic coastline.
