MileHacker Logo
Food & Dining

Food & Dining

Alsace And Lorraine, France

Culinary Overview

Cultural and Historical Context

Alsatian cuisine is a distinct mix of French and German culinary traditions. This reflects the region's history, which saw Alsace change hands multiple times. The result is food that often features rich, comforting dishes, with an emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients.

Many traditional recipes pass through generations, keeping their authenticity. Dining forms a social experience in Alsace, with meals often stretching over several hours.

Ingredients and Flavors

  • Pork: A cornerstone, used extensively in sausages, cured meats, and stews.
  • Cabbage: Fermented cabbage (choucroute) is a staple, often with rich meat dishes.
  • Potatoes: Frequently served roasted, boiled, or in stews.
  • Cream, Cheese, Mushrooms: Appear in many sauces and side dishes for richness.

Dining Customs and Etiquette

Meal Times

Lunch (Déjeuner): Typically between 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM. Dinner (Dîner): Generally from 7:00 PM to 9:30 PM. Restaurants often close between lunch and dinner.

Service and Bread

Service in French restaurants proceeds at a relaxed pace; meals are for savoring. Bread always comes with your meal, eaten with the main course or to soak up sauces.

Water and Tipping

Ask for "une carafe d'eau" for free tap water. Bottled water incurs a charge. A service charge is usually on the bill; a small additional tip for good service shows appreciation.

Reservations & Dress Code

  • Reservations: A good idea for dinner, especially on weekends or at popular restaurants. Book Michelin-starred places months ahead.
  • Dress Code: Smart casual is generally appropriate. For fine dining, dress a bit more formally.
  • Meal Structures: Breakfast is light (coffee, bread, pastries). Lunch is often the largest meal; many places have a "plat du jour." Dinner can be multi-course, often starting with an apéritif.
  • Regional Variations: Wine varieties used in cooking or pairing change along the Wine Route. Vosges cuisine is heartier, featuring game, local cheeses, and root vegetables.

Must-Try Dishes

Signature Alsatian Dishes

Choucroute Garnie

Fermented cabbage (sauerkraut) braised with white wine, served with various salted pork cuts like sausages, bacon, and ham hock. A hearty meal.

Find at: Traditional Winstubs throughout Alsace.

Tarte Flambée Flammekueche

A thin, crisp dough topped with crème fraîche, sliced onions, and lardons. Bakes quickly in a wood-fired oven. Eaten by hand.

Find at: Winstubs and dedicated Tarte Flambée restaurants.

Baeckeoffe

A robust casserole with sliced potatoes, onions, carrots, and three types of marinated meat (beef, pork, lamb). Slow-cooked in white wine in an earthenware terrine.

Find at: Traditional Winstubs and family-run restaurants. May require advance ordering.

More Local Flavors

  • Coq au Riesling: Chicken cooked in a creamy sauce with mushrooms and local Riesling wine.
  • Spätzle: Small, irregular-shaped pasta or egg noodles, often pan-fried with butter, served as a side.
  • Munster Cheese: Strong-smelling, soft cow's milk cheese from the Vosges. Served with potatoes and cumin seeds.
  • Bretzel (Pretzel): Large, soft, chewy, salted pretzels. A good snack from bakeries and street vendors.

Sweets and Beverages

Kougelhopf

A distinctive ring-shaped brioche cake with raisins and almonds, dusted with powdered sugar. Found in bakeries.

Alsace Wines

Unique in France for grape variety labels: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Sylvaner, Pinot Noir. Often dry and aromatic white wines.

Dining Options

Fine Dining

Alsace holds many Michelin-starred restaurants in major cities like Strasbourg and Colmar, and in charming villages. These places present exquisite cuisine and wine pairings, often in beautiful settings. Examples: Le Chambard in Kaysersberg.

  • High concentration of Michelin-starred establishments.
  • Exquisite cuisine and wine pairings.
  • Reservations are highly advisable, often months in advance for top venues.

Mid-Range Dining

Numerous brasseries, traditional restaurants, and Winstubs (Alsatian taverns) feature local cuisine and French classics at sound prices. Many offer a "Formule Midi" (set lunch menu) for good value.

  • Offers a variety of local and classic French dishes.
  • "Formule Midi" menus present a cost-effective lunch.
  • Consider reservations for dinner, especially on weekends.

Budget & Markets

Bakeries (Boulangeries) are great for affordable lunches (sandwiches, quiches). Markets like Halles de Strasbourg or Marché Couvert de Colmar have food stalls for prepared meals or picnic ingredients. Tarte Flambée eateries are also a very cost-effective meal.

  • Bakeries for fresh, affordable lunches.
  • Markets for prepared foods or picnic supplies.
  • Supermarkets offer cost-effective groceries for self-catering.

International Cuisine & Food Halls

International Options

Strasbourg and Mulhouse, as larger cities, have a wide array of international restaurants: Italian, Asian, Middle Eastern, and more, suiting various tastes.

Variety is plentiful in city centers.

Markets and Food Halls

Halles de Strasbourg and Marché Couvert de Colmar present diverse food stalls, fresh produce, and local specialties. Outdoor markets in most towns feature fresh produce, cheese, and charcuterie directly from local producers.

Explore local tastes in a setting.

Special Dietary Considerations

Vegetarian/Vegan

Traditional Alsatian cuisine is meat-heavy, but larger cities and modern restaurants increasingly feature vegetarian options. Vegan choices are harder but growing in cities. HappyCow app is a good resource.

Gluten-Free/Allergies

Awareness is growing. Carry a Translation card to clearly state needs in French. Many restaurants try to suit serious allergies. Online searches help.

Halal/Kosher

Limited specific Halal/Kosher restaurants outside Strasbourg. Supermarkets may have some certified products.

Resources

Translation cards, online search tools (Google Maps), and checking menus beforehand are good ways to find suitable dining.

Culinary Experiences

Hands-on Learning & Farm Visits

  • Cooking Classes: Offered in Strasbourg and Colmar, focusing on traditional Alsatian dishes like Choucroute or Kougelhopf.
  • Food Tours: Guided walking tours in Strasbourg and Colmar explore local delicacies, markets, and Winstub tastings.
  • Farm Visits: Many Vosges farms feature Ferme-Auberges, offering farm-to-table dining and direct sales of local products.
  • Artisanal Producers: Visits to bakeries or Pain d'épices makers show traditional crafts.

Unique Dining Concepts

Winstubs

Traditional Alsatian taverns are a must-experience. They feature hearty local dishes, regional wines, and a convivial, welcoming atmosphere. A central part of Alsatian dining.

Convivial and authentic.

Ferme-Auberges

Rural farm inns, often in the Vosges mountains, present authentic, simple, and rustic farm-to-table meals. An immersion into rural Alsatian life.

Rustic farm-to-table experience.

Food Festivals and Events

Seasonal Celebrations
Alsace Wine Fair (Colmar): Annual in July/August.
Grape Harvest Festivals (Vendanges): Sept/Oct in Wine Route villages.
Christmas Markets: Late Nov-Dec, Strasbourg and Colmar.
Glühwein (mulled wine), gingerbread, roasted chestnuts, bredele are Christmas market specialties.
Colmar Wine Fair has wine tastings, concerts, cultural events.
Grape Harvest Festivals feature parades, tastings, local festivities.
Local Beverages

Crémant d'Alsace: Sparkling wine, excellent apéritif. Local Beers: Strong brewing tradition (Kronenbourg, Fisher, craft breweries). Schnapps (Eau de Vie): Fruit brandies (kirsch, mirabelle, poire Williams), often digestifs. Alsace Cider: Less common but available.

  • Alsace wines from reputable producers are a recommended purchase.
  • Try a local craft beer.
  • A small glass of schnapps after dinner.
Street Food and Desserts

Smaller Tarte Flambée versions sometimes appear at markets. Mannele: Brioche man-shaped bread, around winter holidays. Pain d'épices (Gingerbread): Available year-round, especially Fortwenger. Bredele: Traditional Alsatian Christmas cookies.

Do not miss these sweet treats!

Additional Dining Information

Affiliate Resources
Local Dining Advice
  • Ask locals for restaurant recommendations.
  • They often know the best places for authentic food away from tourist areas.
Supermarket Use
  • For self-catering, supermarkets are a highly cost-effective way to buy groceries.
  • This is helpful for longer stays or budget travel.

Special Dietary Considerations Cont.

Dining with Specific Needs

Vegetarian Options

Traditional Alsatian food is meat-heavy. However, larger cities and more modern restaurants are increasingly featuring vegetarian choices. Many Tarte Flambée variations can be made without lardons.

Look for: Plat végétarien | Ask your server for choices.
Check HappyCow app
Gluten-Free & Allergens

Awareness of gluten-free (sans gluten) and other allergens (allergènes) is growing in France. It is advisable to carry a translation card that clearly states your dietary needs in French.

Many restaurants will try to suit requests.
Translation cards are useful
Halal and Kosher Availability

Specific Halal or Kosher restaurants are limited outside of Strasbourg, which has a larger Muslim and Jewish community with dedicated butchers and eateries. Supermarkets may stock some certified products.

Check local directories in Strasbourg.

Resources for Specific Dietary Needs

  • Translation Cards: Carry translation cards that explain your dietary restrictions. Select Wisely cards are a good option.
  • Online Search: Use online search tools and apps (e.g., Google Maps with "gluten-free near me") to find suitable restaurants.
  • Menu Checks: Check restaurant menus online beforehand when possible. This helps in planning and selection.
  • Communicate: Clearly communicate your needs to restaurant staff upon arrival.

Takeaways for Dietary Needs

Preparation is Important

For specific dietary restrictions, preparation before dining makes a good experience. Carrying a translation card is strongly suggested.

Plan ahead for easier dining.

City vs. Rural Dining

Larger cities like Strasbourg and Mulhouse present more options for diverse dietary needs compared to smaller, traditional villages along the Wine Route.

More variety in urban areas.

Maximizing Your Culinary Journey

Ask Locals

Do not hesitate to ask locals for their restaurant recommendations. They often know the best places for authentic, delicious food away from tourist traps.

Embrace the Pace

French dining experiences are for savoring. Relax, take your time, and enjoy the multi-course meals at a slower pace. It is part of the cultural richness.

Try Everything

Be adventurous and sample the wide array of Alsatian specialties, from hearty main courses to unique desserts and local beverages. The culinary landscape is vast.

Helpful Tip for Dining

Engage with the local food scene beyond just eating out. Visit markets to see fresh produce and prepared foods.

  • Check for local food festivals during your visit.
  • Consider a cooking class to learn Alsatian recipes firsthand.
  • Taste wines directly at vineyards for a full experience.
  • Explore the diverse offerings of Alsatian bakeries.
  • Do not shy away from the unique cheeses like Munster.